December birthstone
Turquoise
December's traditional birthstone is turquoise, with zircon, tanzanite and blue topaz recognized as alternates. Turquoise is a porous, hydrated copper aluminum phosphate at 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale. That porosity is the whole story: it absorbs oils and cosmetics, which is why turquoise in antique jewelry frequently reads greener now than it did when it was set.
- Species
- A hydrated copper aluminum phosphate
- Color range
- Sky blue through to green, often with matrix veining
- Mohs hardness
- 5 to 6
- Also this month
- Zircon, Tanzanite, Blue topaz
The Victorians loved turquoise, above all as small round cabochons set in pavé to form forget me nots, serpents and hearts. The color carried a specific sentimental language, and turquoise pieces were among the most common gifts of the period, which is why so many survive.
Because turquoise changes with wear, an antique stone that has gone soft green is not damaged, it is aged. We describe every stone exactly as it looks now rather than as it may once have looked, and we never re dye or stabilize a stone to make it photograph better.
Stabilization, dyeing and reconstituted turquoise are all present in the wider market. Stabilization impregnates porous material with resin so it can be cut and worn, which is legitimate when disclosed, and reconstituted material is ground turquoise bound together, which is a very different product.
Zircon, one of the alternates, is a natural mineral and has nothing to do with cubic zirconia, the man made diamond simulant. The names are close and the confusion is common. Natural blue zircon has strong doubling and real fire, and it appears in early twentieth century jewelry.
In antique and vintage jewelry
Victorian pavé forget me nots, serpent rings and lockets, Persian turquoise cabochons in gold, and bold mid century pieces where turquoise sits against heavy yellow gold.
Wearing and caring for it
Porous and easily changed. Keep turquoise away from perfume, hand cream, hairspray and household cleaners, and never soak it. Wipe with a dry or barely damp soft cloth. Put it on last and take it off first.
As a gift
Victorian turquoise pieces carry a readable language of affection, which makes them a personal gift with a real story rather than just a color.
Common questions
Why has my antique turquoise turned green?
Turquoise is porous and absorbs skin oils, cosmetics and moisture over decades, which shifts the color toward green. It is normal aging in a worn piece, not damage.
Is zircon the same as cubic zirconia?
No. Zircon is a natural mineral with strong fire and visible doubling. Cubic zirconia is a man made diamond simulant. The similar names cause constant confusion.
Can turquoise be cleaned?
Only with a dry or barely damp soft cloth. No soaking, no ultrasonic cleaner and no solvents, all of which can discolor or damage the stone.
Shop the pieces
Shop turquoise jewelry
Antique and vintage pieces set with turquoise, each one a single example.
Nothing matching this is available right now. Every piece is a single example and sells once, so this changes weekly. Browse everything in stock or ask our buyers to look for it.