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Collection

Art Nouveau Jewelry

Art Nouveau was a short rebellion, and it produced the most sculptural jewelry of the antique period. For twenty years around the turn of the century, jewelers stopped valuing a piece by the carats in it and started valuing it by what it was: a dragonfly, an iris, a woman's face in profile with her hair turning into a whiplash curve. Enamel, horn, glass, opal and moonstone mattered as much as diamonds, sometimes more.

4 pieces · from $3,864

About art nouveau

What defines it

Art Nouveau (roughly 1890 to 1910) favors line over stone value: plique-à-jour and guilloché enamel, whiplash curves, insects, irises and the female form, in gold rather than platinum.

What to look for

Every piece here is checked at our own bench before it goes online: metal karat tested, marks read under magnification, stones and settings examined, and condition described as we find it. Anything we cannot verify is left as not specified rather than guessed, and we will show you any piece live on video before you buy.

What it costs

Pieces from this period typically sit between roughly $900 and $8,000 with us, depending on gold weight, stone quality and condition.

Indicative only. Every curated vintage, antique and estate piece is one of a kind and priced on its own merits, with free insured US shipping.

Personal service

Nothing here yet is quite it?

Three ways to go further, all of them with a person on the other side.

01

Book a private video viewing

One of our jewelers takes any piece to daylight and shows you the hallmark, the setting and any wear, live and in your own time zone.

Book a viewing
02

Tell us what you are looking for

Our buyers are with European estates and auction houses every week. Describe the piece and we write to you the moment something right comes in.

We will source it
03

Have one made — Atelier

Our Atelier pieces are newly handcrafted in our own workshop, taking their cues from the vintage and antique jewelry we have spent decades restoring. New work with a vintage soul, never sold as antique.

Explore Atelier

That makes it the hardest period to buy carelessly. Plique-à-jour enamel — glass held in a metal framework with no backing, so light passes through it like a window — chips and crazes; horn dries; opals need care. Every Art Nouveau piece we list has had its enamel examined under magnification for losses and restoration, and what we find is recorded on the page.

We buy across France, Belgium, Germany and the Netherlands, where the movement ran under different names, and restore only where restoration is honest and reversible. Where a piece carries a maker's mark we research it; where it does not, we say it is unsigned rather than attributing it. Everything ships free and insured to the US with import duties included.

Enamel, horn and plique-à-jour

The techniques are the point. Plique-à-jour is checked cell by cell for cracks and missing sections; basse-taille and guilloché enamel are checked for chips at the edges. Losses are photographed and written into the condition report, because on Art Nouveau pieces that is what determines value.

Motifs and what they meant

Dragonflies, irises, orchids, peacocks, serpents and the female figure appear again and again, drawn from nature and from Japanese prints. The line is always moving: nothing in Art Nouveau is symmetrical for its own sake, which is exactly what separates it from the Deco years that followed.

Stones that suit the style

Opal, moonstone, pearl, amethyst, peridot and demantoid garnet suited the palette better than white diamonds, and jewelers used them freely. Our gemologist identifies the stones and any treatment; where a stone is a replacement, the listing says so.

Frequently asked questions

What years count as Art Nouveau jewelry?
Roughly 1890 to 1910, at its height between 1895 and 1905. In Germany and Austria the same movement is called Jugendstil, and in Britain it overlaps with Arts and Crafts, which shares the naturalism but not the fluid line.
Can damaged enamel be restored?
Sometimes, and not always honestly. Small losses can be filled, but a refired panel is no longer original. We prefer to sell a piece with its enamel as found and describe the losses accurately, and we tell you which repairs we would and would not make.
Is each piece one of a kind?
Yes. Everything here is a single, individually sourced piece, so once it sells it is gone. Pieces that have already found an owner stay visible in our archive as inspiration, and you can tell us what you are looking for so we can watch for it as we buy.
Can I see the piece before I buy it?
Book a private video viewing. One of our specialists takes that exact piece into daylight on camera, turns it in the hand, shows you the hallmark and the back of the setting, and answers your questions live in your own time zone.
How does shipping to the US work?
Every order ships free, fully insured and tracked from the Netherlands to any US address. Import duties and taxes are already included in the price you see, so nothing is collected on delivery. You have 30 days to return, with free insured return shipping.

Not sure yet?

See it before you buy it

One of our jewelers will take any piece in this collection to daylight and show you the hallmark, the setting and any wear, live and in your own time zone.

Book a private video viewing

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