Gemstone encyclopedia
Aquamarine — meaning, history and vintage jewelry
Aquamarine is the blue member of the beryl family, the same species as emerald but colored by iron rather than chromium. It runs 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale and is usually far cleaner than emerald, which is why cutters give it long step cuts that show the clarity. Most aquamarine in the trade has been gently heated to remove a greenish cast, a stable and universally accepted practice.
What aquamarine is
Because good aquamarine rough grows in large, clean crystals, antique aquamarines are often generous in size. Art Deco jewelers loved that: a big, icy rectangular aquamarine framed in tiny diamonds is one of the period's signature looks.
Color is the main driver of value. Pale, silvery blues are common and inexpensive; a saturated, slightly deeper blue in a large clean stone is genuinely rare. Aquamarine is often pleochroic, showing a slightly different blue depending on the viewing angle.
Color and hardness
- Species
- Beryl
- Color
- Pale sky blue to blue green, occasionally a deeper sea blue
- Mohs hardness
- 7.5 to 8
- What that means in wear
- Hard and reliable, though beryl has a brittle streak, so avoid hard knocks on unprotected corners.
How to care for aquamarine
- Warm soapy water and a soft brush. Rinse and dry properly.
- Avoid steam and sudden heat, which can affect the color of heated stones.
- Ultrasonic cleaning is usually tolerated by clean stones but should be avoided if the stone is included.
Our full house rules, including what the one year warranty does and does not cover, are in the care & warranty guide.
History and symbolism
Named from the Latin for sea water, aquamarine came into wide European use in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries as Brazilian material reached the market. It reached its high point in the 1930s, when the scale and cool color suited Deco and Retro design perfectly.
Traditionally a stone of safe passage for travelers and sailors, which is a direct reading of its color. It is the modern March birthstone.
Aquamarine in vintage and antique jewelry
Edwardian pieces set small aquamarines with platinum and diamonds; Art Deco favors bold rectangular and square emerald cuts; Retro rings from the 1940s put large pale aquamarines into sculpted rose and yellow gold.
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Aquamarine pieces in our collection
Every curated vintage, antique and estate piece is one of a kind and checked by our jewelry specialists in the Netherlands. If nothing is right today, we will look for it.
Frequently asked questions
- Is aquamarine usually treated?
- Most aquamarine on the market has been gently heated to remove a green tint. The treatment is stable, permanent and standard for the species, and it does not need special care.
- Why do Art Deco pieces use such large aquamarines?
- Beryl grows in big, clean crystals, so large stones are attainable in a way they are not for ruby or emerald. Deco design used that scale deliberately.
- What makes one aquamarine worth more than another?
- Depth and evenness of blue first, then size and clarity. A deeply saturated blue in a large clean stone is uncommon.
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