Gemstone encyclopedia
Coral — meaning, history and vintage jewelry
Precious coral is organic, formed from the calcium carbonate skeletons of marine polyps, and it has been carved and polished in the Mediterranean for millennia. It is very soft at 3 to 4 on the Mohs scale and dissolves in acid, so perfume, cosmetics and household cleaners are its enemies. Most coral in the trade today is antique or vintage material, since harvesting of precious coral is now tightly restricted.
What coral is
Color runs from white through the pale angel skin pink of Mediterranean material to the deep oxblood of the finest Sardinian and Japanese coral. Dyed coral exists and should be disclosed; so should reconstituted and pressed material.
Coral is carved rather than faceted: beads, cameos, roses, branches and figures. Victorian coral is often left as a natural branch, which is one of the fastest ways to date a piece to the mid nineteenth century.
Color and hardness
- Species
- Organic, the calcium carbonate skeleton of marine coral polyps
- Color
- White, pale angel skin pink, salmon and deep oxblood red
- Mohs hardness
- 3 to 4
- What that means in wear
- Very soft and acid sensitive. Coral scratches easily and dulls quickly if it is worn carelessly.
How to care for coral
This is one of our delicate stones. Pearls, opal, emerald, turquoise, coral, moonstone and tanzanite must never go near an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, and they should be kept away from perfume, cosmetics and household chemicals.
- Never use ultrasonic or steam cleaning.
- Wipe with a soft, barely damp cloth after wear.
- Keep away from perfume, hairspray, acids and cosmetics, all of which etch the surface.
- Store separately in a soft pouch so nothing scratches it.
Our full house rules, including what the one year warranty does and does not cover, are in the care & warranty guide.
History and symbolism
Torre del Greco near Naples has been the center of the coral trade since the eighteenth century. Coral peaked in Victorian Europe as children's jewelry and Grand Tour souvenirs, and returned emphatically in Art Deco, paired with onyx and diamonds.
Protection, particularly of children, which is why coral necklaces and teething rattles were given to Victorian babies.
Coral in vintage and antique jewelry
Victorian branch coral brooches and necklaces; carved coral cameos; Art Deco coral with onyx and diamond; 1960s and 1970s gold with large coral cabochons.
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Coral pieces in our collection
Every curated vintage, antique and estate piece is one of a kind and checked by our jewelry specialists in the Netherlands. If nothing is right today, we will look for it.
Frequently asked questions
- Is buying antique coral responsible?
- Antique and vintage coral is material already in circulation, which is exactly the argument for buying it rather than newly harvested coral. Harvesting of precious coral is now heavily restricted.
- How can I tell if coral is dyed?
- Dye tends to concentrate in fissures and to look flat and even. A gemologist can assess it, and dyed or reconstituted material must be disclosed.
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