Which chain type is strongest?

Among common types, a solid curb, belcher or anchor chain of reasonable gauge is the most robust. Strength depends far more on the gauge and on whether links are solid than on the pattern name.

Is a hollow gold chain worth buying?

It can be, if you want length and presence for a lower price and will wear it gently. Be aware that hollow links dent and are much harder to repair than solid ones. We always state which a chain is.

Types & anatomy

Chain types explained

Cable, curb, Figaro, rope, box, Venetian and anchor, and which links survive daily wear.

Written by our in-house jewelry team · Updated August 7, 2026 · 7 min read

Vintage gold ring on a bench block among jeweler's hand tools at the goldsmith workbench — Chain types explained

In short

Chain names describe the shape of the link and how the links connect. Cable is a plain round or oval link, curb is a twisted and flattened link that lies flat, Figaro alternates long and short curb links, rope twists many small links into a spiral, box is a chain of square links, Venetian is a flat box variant, and anchor or marine is a cable link with a bar across it. Solid heavier links wear best; hollow and very fine links are the ones that fail.

Two chains of the same weight and karat can behave completely differently, because the link does the work. This is a short, practical tour of the links you will actually meet in European vintage jewelry.

Every chain we sell is weighed and measured, and we say plainly whether the links are solid or hollow.

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Cable, curb and Figaro

A cable chain is the simplest form: identical round or oval links joined in a line. It is unfussy, it suits a pendant, and it is easy to repair because a jeweler can make a matching link.

A curb chain has links that are twisted and then flattened so they lie flush against the skin. It is the workhorse of European gold chains. A Figaro is a curb chain with a repeating pattern of one long link and two or three short ones, most associated with Italian gold from the mid twentieth century onward.

Rope, box and Venetian

A rope chain twists small links into a continuous spiral. It has real sparkle because so many facets of metal catch light, but a broken rope chain is difficult to repair invisibly.

A box chain is built from square links that sit face to face, giving a clean, angular line. Venetian is the flatter version of the same idea. Both hold a pendant well and both kink permanently if bent sharply, so store them hanging or laid flat.

Anchor, belcher and fancy links

Anchor or marine links are cable links with a bar across the middle, borrowed from ship's chain. Belcher links are broad and rounded in section, common in British and Dutch gold. Beyond these you will meet fancy Victorian links: fetter, trombone, paperclip, fancy fetter-and-three and a great many one-off patterns from local goldsmiths.

Fancy vintage links are where character lives, and also where repairs get expensive, because a matching link has to be made by hand.

Antique gold rings with old-cut diamonds and a ruby on cream silk beside a brass ring dish — Types & anatomy — from the pieces and workshop notes behind this guide.

What to check before you buy a vintage chain

Look at the clasp first: bolt rings and spring rings wear out and can be replaced, and a replaced clasp is normal on a chain that has been worn for eighty years. Then run the chain through your fingers and feel for a link that has thinned, or a section that has stretched and lost its shape.

Ask whether the links are solid or hollow. Hollow links keep the price and the weight down but they crush and are far harder to repair.

Best for daily wear: solid curb, belcher and anchor
Best for a pendant: cable, box and Venetian
Handle with care: fine rope, very fine cable and hollow links of any type

Frequently asked questions

Which chain type is strongest?: Among common types, a solid curb, belcher or anchor chain of reasonable gauge is the most robust. Strength depends far more on the gauge and on whether links are solid than on the pattern name.
Is a hollow gold chain worth buying?: It can be, if you want length and presence for a lower price and will wear it gently. Be aware that hollow links dent and are much harder to repair than solid ones. We always state which a chain is.

Written by our estate jewelry team and reviewed by our in-house gemologist. We have been buying and selling European antique jewelry since 1973.

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