Gemstone encyclopedia
Sapphire — meaning, history and vintage jewelry
Sapphire is corundum in every color except red, which is called ruby. At 9 on the Mohs scale it is second only to diamond in hardness and has no cleavage, which is why antique sapphires so often survive a century of wear in fine condition. Kashmir, Burmese and Ceylon origins carry historic reputations, and most sapphire is heated, a stable and accepted treatment.
What sapphire is
Blue is the color everyone means, but sapphire's other colors are a serious part of antique jewelry: yellow sapphires in Victorian gold, pink in Edwardian platinum, and colorless sapphire used as a diamond substitute before synthetics were common.
Color zoning and silk, the fine needle inclusions that soften the light, are normal in natural sapphire and can be evidence of a stone that has not been aggressively treated. A sapphire presented as unheated should have a report from a recognized laboratory.
Color and hardness
- Species
- Corundum
- Color
- Blue above all, but also yellow, pink, green, orange padparadscha and colorless
- Mohs hardness
- 9
- What that means in wear
- Extremely hard with no cleavage, which makes sapphire the most practical colored stone for an engagement ring.
How to care for sapphire
- Warm soapy water and a soft brush; sapphire is easy to keep clean.
- Ultrasonic cleaning is usually safe for a sound modern mount, but avoid it on antique closed back or foiled settings and on heavily included stones.
- Check claws every so often, since the mount is the weak point, not the stone.
Our full house rules, including what the one year warranty does and does not cover, are in the care & warranty guide.
History and symbolism
Ceylon supplied Europe for centuries; Kashmir's brief output in the 1880s and 1890s produced the velvety blues that still set the benchmark; Montana and Australian material widened supply from the late nineteenth century. Sapphire's modern popularity as an engagement stone owes a great deal to two well known royal rings.
Wisdom, truth and fidelity, which is why it was the stone of ecclesiastical rings long before it was a betrothal stone.
Sapphire in vintage and antique jewelry
Victorian sapphire and diamond clusters; Edwardian platinum lace with cabochon and cushion sapphires; Art Deco calibre cut sapphire borders and geometric plaques; mid century gold with faceted blue sapphires.
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Sapphire pieces in our collection
Every curated vintage, antique and estate piece is one of a kind and checked by our jewelry specialists in the Netherlands. If nothing is right today, we will look for it.
Frequently asked questions
- Is sapphire a good engagement ring stone?
- Yes. At Mohs 9 with no cleavage it is the most practical colored stone for a ring worn every day, and antique sapphires are widely available in beautiful old settings.
- Are most sapphires heated?
- Yes. Heating improves color and clarity, is permanent and is standard practice. Unheated stones of fine color are rarer and should carry a laboratory report.
- What makes Kashmir sapphire special?
- A velvety, slightly sleepy blue caused by fine inclusions, from a source that produced for barely a decade. Origin claims of that kind need a report, and we never assume one.
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