Gemstone encyclopedia
Spinel — meaning, history and vintage jewelry
Spinel is one of the great under-recognized gemstones: hard at 8 on the Mohs scale, brilliant, and available in reds and pinks that rival ruby. For centuries it was mistaken for ruby, which is why several famous crown jewels described as rubies are in fact spinels. Natural spinel is very rarely treated, an unusual virtue among colored stones.
What spinel is
Red and hot pink stones from Burma and Tanzania are the best known, but cobalt blue spinel is the rarest and most sought after. Gray and lavender material has become fashionable recently and is still comparatively affordable.
Synthetic spinel has existed since the early twentieth century and was used extensively in inexpensive mid century jewelry, often as a blue sapphire substitute in class rings and dress pieces. It is easy for a gemologist to identify.
Color and hardness
- Species
- Spinel
- Color
- Red, hot pink, orange, lavender, gray and cobalt blue
- Mohs hardness
- 8
- What that means in wear
- Hard, singly refractive and without cleavage. A genuinely practical gemstone.
How to care for spinel
- Warm soapy water and a soft brush; spinel is easy to care for.
- Ultrasonic cleaning is usually safe in a sound modern mount, but avoid it on antique closed back settings.
- Ask whether a red stone in an antique piece has been tested, since ruby and spinel look alike.
Our full house rules, including what the one year warranty does and does not cover, are in the care & warranty guide.
History and symbolism
The Black Prince's Ruby in the British Imperial State Crown and the Timur Ruby are both spinels. Only in the late eighteenth and nineteenth centuries did mineralogy separate spinel from corundum, by which time the confusion was written into history.
Revitalization and hope in modern usage; historically it carried the same protective associations as ruby, because it was believed to be ruby.
Spinel in vintage and antique jewelry
Georgian and Victorian rings with red spinel sold as ruby; Edwardian pieces with pale pink and lavender stones; mid century jewelry with synthetic spinel accents.
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Spinel pieces in our collection
Every curated vintage, antique and estate piece is one of a kind and checked by our jewelry specialists in the Netherlands. If nothing is right today, we will look for it.
Frequently asked questions
- Is spinel a real gemstone or a ruby imitation?
- Natural spinel is a distinct mineral species and a fine gemstone in its own right. The confusion comes from centuries of red spinel being sold as ruby, not from spinel being an imitation.
- Is spinel treated?
- Rarely. Most natural spinel reaches the market untreated, which is unusual for a colored stone and one of its attractions.
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