Can I use a jewelry cleaning dip?

Not on antique pieces. Commercial dips are formulated for modern metals and can strip the patina from engraving and attack porous stones and enamel.

How often should I clean a ring I wear daily?

A quick soak every two to four weeks keeps the stones bright. A goldsmith should check the settings once a year.

Should I polish away the darkening in engraving?

No. That oxidation sits in the recesses on purpose and gives the design its depth. Removing it makes an antique piece look flat and new.

How-to & tools

How to clean vintage jewelry at home

Warm water, a soft brush and knowing when to stop.

Written by our in-house jewelry team · Updated August 1, 2026 · 6 min read

Polishing cloth, soft brush and a gold vintage bracelet on warm marble — How to clean vintage jewelry at home

In short

For most solid gold pieces set with diamond, sapphire or ruby, a bowl of lukewarm water with a drop of mild dish soap, two minutes of soaking and a soft baby toothbrush is all you need. Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner on antique jewelry, and keep water away from emeralds, opals, pearls, turquoise, coral, foil-backed stones and any enamel or hair work.

Nearly all the damage we repair from home cleaning comes from two things: ultrasonic machines and household chemicals. Both are far harsher than anything an antique piece was designed to survive.

The method below is what our own goldsmiths use for routine cleaning between services.

Shop the pieces: Everyday vintage fine jewelry, curated and available now.

The safe method

Line a bowl with a soft cloth so nothing knocks against the base, and never clean over an open drain. Fill it with lukewarm water and one drop of plain dish soap.

Soak for two to three minutes, no longer
Brush gently behind the stones with a soft baby toothbrush, where skin oils and soap collect
Rinse in a second bowl of clean water, not under a running tap
Pat dry with a lint-free cloth and let the piece air dry fully before storing, so no moisture sits under a setting

Never do these

Ultrasonic cleaners drive vibration through the whole piece. They loosen old claw settings, crack included stones, drive water behind foil backs and shatter emeralds. Steam does the same with heat added.

Bleach, chlorine and ammonia attack the copper and silver in gold alloys and will pit a shank over time. Toothpaste and baking soda are abrasive and will dull polish and soften engraving. Take rings off before swimming pools and hot tubs.

Pieces that should not get wet at all

Wipe these with a dry or barely damp soft cloth only: emeralds, opals, turquoise, coral, malachite, amber and other soft or porous stones; all pearls; any Georgian or early Victorian piece with foil-backed stones; mourning jewelry with hair or fabric; and anything with a closed-back setting where water cannot escape.

If a piece is heavily tarnished, structurally loose or has stones you cannot identify, stop and ask us. Cleaning is free advice on any piece we have sold.

Antique gold rings with old-cut diamonds and a ruby on cream silk beside a brass ring dish — How-to & tools — from the pieces and workshop notes behind this guide.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use a jewelry cleaning dip?: Not on antique pieces. Commercial dips are formulated for modern metals and can strip the patina from engraving and attack porous stones and enamel.
How often should I clean a ring I wear daily?: A quick soak every two to four weeks keeps the stones bright. A goldsmith should check the settings once a year.
Should I polish away the darkening in engraving?: No. That oxidation sits in the recesses on purpose and gives the design its depth. Removing it makes an antique piece look flat and new.

Written by our estate jewelry team and reviewed by our in-house gemologist. We have been buying and selling European antique jewelry since 1973.

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