Rome · founded 1884 by Sotirio Bulgari
Vintage Bulgari
Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 by Sotirio Bulgari, a silversmith from Greece, and became the house that broke with French taste. From the 1960s onward its jewelry is unmistakably Roman: heavy yellow gold, cabochon rather than faceted stones, unexpected color combinations and classical references, including ancient coins set directly into gold.
The house
The house began in silver and moved into jewelry over the first half of the twentieth century, working broadly within the French idiom. The decisive change comes in the 1950s and 1960s, when Bulgari abandoned platinum and faceted delicacy in favor of yellow gold, rounded volumes and strong flat color.
Several signatures recur. Serpenti, the coiled snake, appears as both jewelry and watch and is built from articulated gold scales or Tubogas, a flexible gold band made without soldering. Monete pieces set genuine ancient Greek and Roman coins into modern gold mounts, a very Roman idea executed with real archaeology.
The BVLGARI BVLGARI design, with the house name doubled around a bezel, dates to 1975 and takes its cue from lettering on ancient Roman coins. Together with heavy gold chain work it defines the 1970s and 1980s pieces that are the most wearable signed jewelry of that period.
Iconic designs and collections
- Serpenti
- Coiled snake motif in articulated scales or Tubogas.
- BVLGARI BVLGARI
- Doubled house name around a bezel, introduced in 1975.
- B.zero1
- Spiral band ring introduced in 1999.
Iconic designs and their context
Serpenti, the coiled snake, appears across both jewelry and watches and is built either from articulated gold scales or from Tubogas, a flexible gold band formed without soldering. The BVLGARI BVLGARI design, with the house name doubled around a bezel, dates to 1975 and takes its cue from lettering found on ancient Roman coins, an idea consistent with the house's Monete pieces, which set genuine ancient coins into modern gold mounts.
The B.zero1 ring, a spiral band design, was introduced in 1999 and became one of the house's most recognized modern pieces, extending the classical, architectural language established decades earlier.
Recognizing marks and signatures
Signed pieces are generally marked BVLGARI, often with a metal standard mark and a serial number. Tubogas construction should feel seamless and flexible in the hand, and Serpenti scale work should be evenly articulated with no stiff or misaligned sections. As with the other major houses, marks are placed discreetly and should be evenly and crisply stamped.
Common fakes and warning signs
Copies of Serpenti and BVLGARI BVLGARI pieces are common, particularly in gold plated rather than solid gold construction. Tubogas bands that feel stiff, hollow or unevenly finished, and stamped marks that are soft or inconsistent, are frequent warning signs.
Why marks alone do not authenticate
A BVLGARI stamp can be applied to a piece that was not made by the house, so attribution depends on weighing the mark against the metal, the construction quality and the finishing together, rather than relying on the name alone.
How to recognize the work
- Heavy, warm yellow gold with substantial weight in the hand
- Cabochon colored stones used for flat blocks of color rather than for sparkle
- Unexpected color pairings, for example amethyst with turquoise or coral with onyx
- Tubogas bands, flexible and seamless, with no visible soldering
- Classical references, from set ancient coins to Roman lettering around a bezel
What the marks mean
- BVLGARI in Roman capitals with a V for the U, which is the house's own spelling, though BULGARI also appears on some pieces
- A metal standard, most often 750 for 18K gold
- An Italian maker's mark: a number in a lozenge with the abbreviation of the province where the workshop was registered
- A serial number on many later pieces
- Marks are typically on the inside of a bangle, on a clasp or on the reverse of a mount
Buy carefully
Heavy gold Bulgari style chain and Tubogas work is widely imitated, and the giveaway is usually weight, the crispness of the gold work and the maker's mark rather than the signature. We photograph the signature, the metal standard and the Italian maker's mark on every signed piece.
Common questions
Why is it spelled BVLGARI?
The classical Latin alphabet used V where modern Italian uses U. The house adopted the Roman spelling as a deliberate reference to the city it comes from, and it appears that way on most pieces.
What is Tubogas?
A flexible tubular gold band made by wrapping strips around a core so the finished band holds together without solder. It is a Bulgari signature and it is technically difficult to do well.
Are the coins in Monete pieces genuine?
In the house's own work they are genuine ancient coins. When we handle a coin set piece we describe what the coin appears to be and what would require specialist numismatic confirmation.
Are you an authorized dealer?
No. We are an independent estate jeweler and we are not affiliated with or endorsed by the house. We buy signed pieces from European estates, examine and photograph the signature, numbers and metal marks, and describe exactly what we can and cannot establish.
When did the BVLGARI BVLGARI design appear?
In 1975. The design doubles the house name around a bezel, taking its cue from lettering found on ancient Roman coins.
What is B.zero1?
A spiral band ring design introduced by Bulgari in 1999, which became one of the house's best known modern pieces.
Why does Bulgari jewelry from the 1960s look so different from earlier work?
The house moved away from platinum and faceted stones toward heavy yellow gold, cabochon stones and bold color in the 1950s and 1960s, establishing the Roman style it is known for today.
What are Bulgari Monete pieces?
Jewelry that sets genuine ancient Greek and Roman coins into modern gold mounts, reflecting the house's Roman identity and its engagement with classical archaeology.
Shop the pieces
Signed Bulgari in stock
Estate pieces signed Bulgari, photographed mark and all. Each one is a single example.
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